Suggested Itinerary
The Black Lagoon
Don't be put off by the name. The creatures of our black water systems are mostly benign. We do have some real lookers here, though! Chief among them is the anaconda, the world's largest snake, (Eunectus marinus) which hang out in the river and ponds until for some reason they come out to sun themselves end of July-beginning of August. I've never seen one over 6.5 meters, but there's supposed to be some giants out there. A close rival for size comes in the form of the huge paichi, (Arapaima giganteus) a scaled fish belonging to an ancient family which tops the scales at over 200 kilos and 3 meters in length. When it comes to excitement, there's nothing like a huge zabalo (Brycon sp.) on your line - one of the world's top game fish, size for size. While seldom over 4 kilos, they'll give you a work out you'll remember. And if none of this sounds exciting, why not just try an early morning, with the mists rising slowly off the water, as you paddle your dugout silently past crimson bromeliads....macaws flying scarlet and golden across the sky, a curious capuchin monkey staring from the branches.... this world is truly magic.
Day 1 Today we come down from Quito to Zabalo. You'll be flying over the Cayambe pass, a natural low spot in the Eastern Andes range at only 4000 m.(14,000 ft.). Cayambe, to your right, is one of our major snowcap; on a good day you should be able to see Antisana and Saraurco as well, as you cross high grasslands and tundra and begin your descent into the Amazon basin.
At Lago Agrio, hub of Ecuador's 400,000 barrel a day petroleum industry, you will board your taxi for a two hour drive through largely colonized farmlands to the river port of Chiritza on the Aguarico River. Here you will meet us- the Cofan people of Zabalo. You'll have about four hours to enjoy the Aguarico and watch it change from a rapid, rocky stream to a slower, wide-beached waterway as we drive down in motor canoes or speedboats. Then its supper, a bit of conversation about tomorrow, a chance to meet your crew, and then to bed, in our community-run tourist cabins.
Day 2 Today we board our motorized dug-out for the Zabalo river proper. The Zabalo, in sharp contrast to the silt-bearing, light colored Aguarico, runs deep black or brown as it drains the vast mauriti palm swamps of the interior. Slow moving, dark water:; tall trees towering over high banks; brilliant butterflies flitting quietly: this is vintage Amazonia at its best. We should get a chance to see anhingas, macaws, king vultures, tiger herons and dozens of other bird species. May's a good month for seeing several of our 12 monkey species, and anytime between October and March will do for watching breeding yellow rumped caciques displaying and nesting. And of course there are hoatzins. Our destination today is Shashamboe, a comfortable camp on the middle Zabalo river, named after the hoatzin. We should arrive by mid-afternoon, in time for a swim and a bit of evening fishing or caiman watching. I'm not kidding about swimming- the black waters of the Zabalo are some of the purest on Earth, and are exactly what the doctor ordered at the end of a day. Honest, the piranhas won't bite!
Day 3 Today is for exploring. If its dry, we'll set out overland up the Shashamba Creek, with a high chance of running into monkeys, and a fair run at finding a herd of white lipped peccary. This last is a rush of a rare order- these close relatives to the pig travel in herds of two hundred or more, scaring off even the jaguar by their sheer numbers. Getting close to a herd as it rumbles and clacks its way through the underbrush is an unforgettable experience.
If its wet, we'll set off up the Shashamba via small canoes. This is prime monkey time. We should see howlers, woolies, capuchins, and squirrel monkeys as we paddle silently up this tiny waterway. On our way back, throw in a line to test your luck with the piranhas.
Night activities at Shashamboe revolve around the changing seasons. When the river is low, we can access a couple of good tapir licks with the possibility of seeing one of these rarely encountered animals. Caiman watching is great anytime of the year, but if we're out for catfish, its good to have low river once again. These fish are the famous tiger cat of Amazonia- ranging in size to an occasional 25 kilo monster, they give the hand liner a real fight. When the river is high, we usually head for potoo and kinkajou watching. Some of the crew will probably be out if there's no moon spearing fish in the shallows- you're welcome to come along if you stay quiet!
Day 4 Lets go up the Zabalo! If the river's high, we can make the ponds and their flooded forest in the headwaters, one of the most beautiful areas of this region. If its low, we should be able to at least make it as far as the first low-water rapids. Here is your chance to really fish. The zabalo is the game, and fight is the name. These fish are the greatest. And there's always the chance to hook a paco (Colossoma sp.) at 15 kilos or so, for a major tug-of-war until the line breaks. Sometimes the fishing is slow... but so what? You're in a wonderland of crimson flowers, sapphire butterflies, monkeys with a greater volume than the lion, and a peacefulness drawn from the dawn of time. Enjoy....
Day 5 Up early this morning- its time to begin the float home. No motor, no noise; only the music of the so ancient yet so fragile forest....the nightingale thrush, turning all its neighbors' calls into symphony... the distant roar of a howler....the inspired mimicry of a yellow-rumped cacique.... the quiet ripples flow from the bow of your tiny dugout as you coast down the river. To me this is the ultimate in our Forest's experiences. The peacefulness gently washes away the thoughts and cares of the outside world as it takes us back into a timeless world of wonder....
Hate to even mention it, but finally we'll reach the mouth of the river and have to board our motor canoes again for the trip back to the village. When we get back, our cooks will give you a Cofan feast, featuring foods we prepare and eat normally in our culture. And after some time for conversation and relaxing, off to bed- tomorrow morning will come quickly.
Day 6 Well, if you want to catch the plane today, have to get up early. We'll give you a good breakfast and whisk you out of the village by maybe 5:30 am? sound terrible? but you'll be able to make the plane and be back in Quito for lunch. From the Forest to the City... but may the quiet and peacefulness of our Black Lagoons stay with you as you return to the other World.
Note: This trip can be shortened by a day or extended by as many days as you care for. We recommend a more leisurely departure than trying to catch the plane the same day as you leave- a morning in the village gives time for visiting with crew members in their homes, seeing some of our conservation projects, and picking up some of our excellent artisan work. Leaving at noon gets you to Chiritza in time to meet your taxi and go to a decent hotel in Lago Agrio for the night, then catching the plane the following day.