Cotopaxi mountaneering summit ascent, 2 days

Extreme Trekking | Mountain Biking | Mountain Climbing | Scuba Diving | White water rafting & kayaking | Other Adventures

Sample itinerary

The warm winds coming from the Amazon region can occasionally cause bad weather to form but will normally clear out by the following day.

As you probably know, "altitude sickness" will be the most difficult part of this climb, therefore, an acclimatization period is very advisable if you want a high rate of success. Our suggested acclimatization period is at least 1 weak trekking in Ecuador highlands.

From the Pan American Highway we drive 24 kilometers to the parking area at the base of the mountain. From there it is a 40 minute hike to the refuge which is located at 4,800 meters on the north face of the mountain. This hut has clean water, cooking facilities, and bunk beds with mattresses. We bring our own sleeping bags and food.

The Ascent:

The climb is not difficult but is mostly on a glacier. Though crevasses, seracs and snow bridges are beautiful and fascinating, at the same time they are dangerous. A fall into a crevasse without knowledge of how to handle the situation could be disastrous. We leave the refuge at 1 a.m.

The route takes 5 to 7 hours ascending and 2 to 3 descending. The first hour takes us up a triangular scree slope, sometimes snow covered, that leads to the glacier. Usually, the beginning of the glacier is steep. Ice axe, rope and crampons are necessary since we'll cross snow bridges and pass a few crevasses.

After 3 hours or so we reach a ridge. Following it for a long stretch, we arrive at the right side of the rocky wall of Yanasacha. We are now right below the summit.

From here the slope increases and the snow is usually rather loose. A sulfurous smell indicates that we are close to the summit. Once arriving at the summit a huge, deep crater welcomes us.

Here we can enjoy an incredible 360 degree view. The main concern for climbing Cotopaxi is sufficient acclimatization.This can be achieved by climbing one of the lower mountains nearby or making a trek at 3000 - 4000 meters before attempting Cotopaxi.

Cotopaxi has that perfect, Mt. Fuji - like, conical shape. It is clad with an enormous layer of snow that shines to the setting of the sun. Congratulations for choosing this great natural exercise. Cotopaxi, waits for you.

Tour operators offering this adventure:

Ecuador tours and Galapagos cruises : www.latintrails.com